Potato Pancakes with Thyme or Garlic Butter
These savoury pancakes are one of my signature dishes. They were one of the most popular dishes I served in my restaurants. Cooking them in the pan followed by the oven makes them surprisingly light and fluffy. A hot oven is a crucial step as otherwise they can be heavy and soggy. They need an accompaniment and my favourite way to serve them is with thyme or garlic butter. They also work well with smoked salmon and creme fraiche, like blinis. The most important ingredient here is well cooked floury potatoes. I love Golden Wonders; I think they are the best floury potato variety in Ireland – if you can get these, use them. Waxy potatoes will not work. Clarified butter is also an important step. When my daughter and her friends were hungry, I would often cook a small batch for them and they would eat them on the street. Healthy street food back in the 1990s! The batter will keep for about 2 days in the fridge.
Ingredients
Makes about 14-18 small pancakes (about 6cm in diameter when cooked)
• 225g floury potatoes (e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pink), peeled, cooked, cooled and weighed after cooking, chopped
• 100g plain white flour
• ½ level tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• 50ml whole milk
• 50ml cream
• 2 eggs
• Clarified butter for frying (about 1 tbsp per batch, as pancakes need to be cooked in batches)
• Garlic or thyme butter or smoked salmon and creme fraiche, to serve
Method
Preheat the oven to fan 220°C / fan 425°F / gas mark 9. In a food processor, pulse the potatoes, flour, salt and thyme to a breadcrumb-like texture. This will only take about 30 seconds, so watch carefully; if over-pulsed the mixture will form a solid mass and is not usable. Add the milk, cream and eggs and blend until a smooth paste. Check the consistency; you’re after a thick batter, much thicker than a crêpe batter, but with a dropping consistency. The consistency will depend on the potatoes. If necessary, add a little more whole milk. Cook the pancakes in batches. Melt 1 tbsp of the clarified butter per batch in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat. Spoon 1 dessert spoon of the batter per pancake into the pan – they will spread naturally and form a round shape, so leave enough room between the pancakes to avoid them touching. Cook the pancakes until the underside is golden brown (around 2-3 minutes). Turn over and cook the other side for about a minute to a similar golden colour. Ensuring that the oven is hot – this is a very important step to ensure the pancakes are crisp and light – move the pan into the oven and cook for 4-5 minutes. You’ll see them theatrically puff up in the oven. Serve the pancakes straightaway, otherwise they will go soggy. Do not stack. Serve up to 5 per person. Best with garlic or thyme butter at room temperature; spoon a little on top of each pancake before serving. Also good with smoked salmon and crème fraiche.
Clarified Butter
Clarified butter is great to use for pan-frying food. By clarifying butter, you reduce the sediments and it can be cooked at a high temperature without burning, since clarification removes impurities. It keeps well and can be stored in the fridge for 3 weeks.
Ingredients
• 225g good quality salted butter.
Method
Heat the butter in a saucepan over a low heat until it melts. When it has finished foaming, take it off the heat and let it stand for 30 minutes. The salt and milky residue settles at the base and you will have a liquid like oil with a froth on top. Skim off the froth. Gently pour off the liquid (clarified butter), leaving the milky residue in the base. Allow to cool, then store the clarified butter in an airtight container in the fridge.
Garlic Butter
Ingredients
• 225g good quality salted butter, at room temperature, chopped into cubes
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
Method
Add the butter, garlic and parsley to a food processor and blend until combined. Store in an airtight container and keep for up to 1 week in the fridge. When using, allow the butter to come to room temperature.
Thyme Butter
Ingredients
• 225g good quality salted butter, at room temperature, chopped into cubes
• 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves (no stalks)
Method
Method Add the butter and thyme to a food processor and blend. Store in an airtight container and keep for up to 1 week in the fridge. When using, allow the butter to come to room temperature.